TOILE Development & TUTORIAL AMENDMENTS OUTFIT 1 Top & Trouser:

DEVELOPING THE TOP:

My previous toile of the top to go underneath the trouser suit had a raglan sleeve. However I didn't feel as though it was hanging well with the rest of my collection and also wasn't working as  a raglan should as with the belt on top of the trousers it will be squished at the side restricting the movement a raglan sleeve gives. I therefore decided to make up another top which is similar to the shirt with a yoke, pleats and a plain sleeve. (see pics below)

Front

Pleat & yoke

Back- to be fastened with a button placket

 ALTERATIONS

• add button placket
• lower neck as too tight
• keep seam allowance at 1cm

DEVELOPING THE OVERSIZED TROUSER:

I have started to work out my belt feature for the top of my Oversized Trouser jumpsuit, and I made the pleats in the Trouser bigger and straightened the side seam. I am now happy with the Silhouette. (see below)

Front: Thinking of adding in belt loops

Pinching out excess fabric that makes the front gape slightly

marking in positions of belt and loops

Pinching out excess on other side

Thinking about back fastening: thinking of using big buttons or large concealed poppers to go with my oversized look. and a zip running at the center back up to the belt.

checking side of belt

checking length

Thinking about desired width for 'turn back' cuff at hem

ANOTHER TOILE & TOILE TUTORIAL COMMENTS & AMENDMENTS

 TOILE TUTORIAL: COMMENTS & AMENDEMENTS 

• Add in straps, and could use a button and a few button holes so able to adjust to person accordingly.
• Belt slightly to big on one side, check measurements ensuring even
• Fuse belt
• Lower crotch at back slightly
• Could bind arm edge to avoid facing or could just include facing around arm holes.
•  As adding in a show zip, add onto pattern accordingly.
• Think about order of make, add zip, sew trouser leg up, sort pockets & topstitch, sew pleats & top stitch, add facings, sew belt, bag out & top stitch (sandwich in straps), add belt loops etc...